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Hiking, Biking & Travel

Beautiful and muddy, hiking the Mullerthaltrail

Magnificent rock formations, beautiful forests and lovely streams. That is the Mullerthal region, also known as Little Switzerland, in Luxembourg. A surprisingly beautiful area with a wonderfully challenging hiking trail.

The Mullerthaltrail is a hiking trail in the east of Luxembourg. It consists of three loops and is a total of 112 kilometers long. It is one of the Leading Quality Trails and it also consists of a number of extra tours in addition to the three loops. Something for everyone! All information about the routes can be found on the website.

Point of departure

In the winter we walked route 2 and extra loop C (via Altrier and Bech). We parked our car in Consdorf, here is a parking space at the Consdorfer Muhle. The first day we walked to Scheidgen and added the extra loop. The second day we walked from Scheidgen to Berdorf, with a short stop in Echternach. The last day we walked from Berdorf, via Mullerthal, back to the car. We stayed overnight in hotels along the route. There is plenty of choice in that regard!

Signage

According to the website, the total route 2 is 38 kilometers and has the designation ‘difficult’. The route is very well signposted everywhere. You will come across many signs, a white area with a red M. In addition, there are regular signs with the different places and the number of kilometers. You can’t go wrong anywhere!

I put this route in Komoot and then came to about 40 kilometers. In practice, however, the Suunto watch gave a much higher mileage. This can partly be explained, because we hadn’t used the extra tour, for example, and we entered the village at Echternach. But every time the mileage on the signs didn’t match the watch, so that’s quite strange. Incidentally, the signs also state that route 2 is 33 kilometers, while the website indicates 38. Confusing. More importantly, how were those miles? You can read that in the report below.

Start of the hike

When we arrive at the parking lot it is quite cold. There is some wet snow. We’re getting ready for a tough hike! Hat and buff, gloves and lots of layers. We have two daypacks with us in which things for the night, a thermos and a nice lunch.

Immediately at the start, the path goes into a valley. Below us a stream, and next to us the first rocks rise. The forest giants complete the picture. We are clearly not walking in a Dutch forest, we are in a Luxembourg!

Adventurous and exciting

Soon the path not only goes along the gigantic rocks, we also go right through them! It starts with a short passage, where the backpack has to be removed because otherwise we can’t get through. However, the passages are getting longer! The Kuelscheier is truly spectacular. You really do need your flashlight here, because you can’t see anything! These adventurous passages give the path something extra exciting.

Through the forest to Scheidgen

We walk to Scheidgen through a beautiful forest and immediately the rocks are there again. You walk a little less fast, because real pace is not possible, but it is very nice to walk here. In any case, the path is always surprising and never boring. The environment is constantly changing. There are also two deer shooting away! We are having a lot of fun!

Additional route

The route to Scheidgen has a short variant and a longer one. When you walk the longer one, you come to a 1000-year-old oak tree. It is said to be the oldest tree in Luxembourg. You can continue the long route to Scheidgen via the same route or you can continue here with the Extra route C. We chose the latter.

It means crossing Altrier and then walking through a forest and outlying area to Beich. A large part of the route is on asphalt. You can walk on the old railway, which is now a cycle path. The railway tunnel and the station of Beich are nice to see, but we found the rest of the route a little less attractive.

Staying warm

The temperature hovers around the freezing point. Altrier is a bit higher and immediately we feel the cold, wet fog. It is important to keep warm in these conditions and it is nice to shelter in bus shelters. A cup of hot tea or chocolate works wonders and gives you energy again.

We walk to Scheidgen through a beautiful forest and immediately the rocks are there again. We pass a number of hermitages. These are rocks where hermits used to live. They led a and poor. Residents in the neighborhood regularly gave them something. Crazy idea that people here really lived in these rocks, it seems cold and unpleasant to me….

The hotel is in Scheidgen for the night, Le Bon Repos, it is nice and warm here. Not only can you enjoy delicious food here, there is also a very nice sauna and steam bath. Good for tired muscles!

White world

The next morning we wake up in a winter wonderland! It has snowed. After breakfast we pack our things and go on our way. It’s cool but nice outside. And the first kilometers through the forest to Echternach it is very beautiful. The trees full of snow, I think it’s beautiful.

Later it starts to thaw. First wet snow, where the snow on the trees also falls down….later it starts to rain. Less nice!

Fortunately, there are dry benches everywhere. Under the overhanging rocks. What an outcome. Here you can have a wonderful break!

Beautiful but muddy…

Meanwhile, the trail turns into a muddy mess. It’s not that easy because it always rises and falls and there are a lot of boulders, now it gets more and more slippery! The environment is still beautiful though, but it makes it a little more difficult.

The second part, just before Echternach, follows a flatter and wider path through the forest. The E29 runs below us and we don’t like walking this part because of the disturbing noise of the cars on the road.

Echternach

Echternach is a large town with a large basilica, some shops and restaurants. We decide to go here for lunch and to warm up.

It turns out that it is quite a walk to the center. However, the warm vegetable soup is delicious. With new energy we start the second stage, to Berdorf.

Impressive rock formations

This part of the Mullerthaltrail is very beautiful. We regret that it is a bit more landscaped, there are wider paths, with gates, more landscaped steps and we expect it to be quite busy in the summer….but the area is beautiful.

The first impressive rock formation is Wollefsschlucht or Gorge du Loup. A very steep gorge with walls of up to 40 meters high. It is said that wolves used to find refuge here. Beautiful!

We walk further along the Aesbaachbeek and arrive at Perekop. Another giant rock! You can also climb this with ladders, we no longer have the energy for it and we would like to arrive in Berdorf before it gets dark.

I personally like the part for Huel Lee (Hohlay) as well. You always walk right along the stream, via various bridges. Some even go above the stream! Finally, at dusk, we arrive at Huel Lee, a gigantic cave.

Via a pretty boring path along the fields we walk the last part to Berdorf. Here we stay again in a nice hotel, the Trail Inn.

The rocks around Berdorf

After a good night and a nice breakfast we walk out of Berdorf in a cold wind. The snow has disappeared almost everywhere, what remains are a few heaps along the side of the road.

We descend and enter the forest. Immediately we see imposing rocks and a stream. When there is a rapid, a path has been built above the stream. An adventurous start to the day!

After we have walked through the rocks for a while, we go deeper into the forest. The Mullerthal trail is also varied here. Then you walk through narrow crevices, a little further on you have a beautiful view or you cross a stream.

The forests of Schnellert

In the Schnellert nature reserve we see the forest change. Here it is a bit wilder with more beautiful vegetation. A pleasant piece!

When we approach Mullerthal we see that there is a diversion in the route. A moment later another one follows. The diversions only cover a small part of the path. Mullerthal itself is a hamlet. Here we see the millstones and the Heringer Muhle, where the tourist information point is located, among other things. It seems they are still developing this area. It matters less to us. In the tourist season it will be very busy here.

The last kilometers…

We continue on to the Schéissendempel, the famous bridge over the rapids in the stream. This is called a small waterfall. It is immediately ‘busy’ with tourists.

We cross the road and take the route to Consdorf. On the way we come across beautiful rock formations in the last kilometers: Eilebuerg, Goldfralee and Goldskaul. The last one in particular is very beautiful and impressive. What helps is that the sun has come out by now and that produces some nice pictures!

We are tired but very satisfied once we arrive at the car. We have covered more than 50 kilometers and have really enjoyed it! What a recommendation this tour is!

If you want to know more about the accommodations, take a look here!

Hotel Bon Repos – Scheidgen

A nice hotel with luxurious rooms. A lovely shower and a hammam on the third floor: with sauna and Turkish bath. I didn’t like the ambiance in the restaurant and breakfast room, but the food is fine. This hotel is a bit more expensive, but we really enjoyed relaxing our tired muscles in the hammam. You can walk the Mullerthaltrail from this hotel, but there are also many other options. They also rent bicycles.

Trail Inn Hotel – Berdorf

The Trail Inn is a nice hotel with a somewhat hipper ambiance. This hotel breathes active outdoor living. With pictures on the wall of the beautiful surroundings and bicycles parked here and there. The employees are super friendly. The rooms and the restaurant are pleasantly decorated. The breakfast tasted fine, there was enough choice to go back to it afterwards. You can also eat in the restaurant in the evening.