The Via Rhona or Eurovelo 17 is a long-distance cycling route from Switzerland to the Mediterranean Sea. Along the way, you cycle along the impressive Rhône, with mountain views, through charming French villages, and past impressive castles and churches. The facilities are generally excellent, with picnic areas, clean restrooms, fresh water, and even charging stations here and there. Want to join us?
Route info
Route info
Information about the Via Rhona or Eurovelo 17 can be found on various websites, such as Via Rhona, Velotourisme, or Europafietsers. You’ll see that the route starts at Lake Geneva (Saint Gingolph) and ends at Port Saint Louis du Rhône or Sête. Because you can start in different locations, the distance also varies. We started in Geneva and finished in Saintes Maries de la Mer, cycling 678 km.
The route isn’t entirely finished yet. 60% of the route is on green lanes (a proper cycle path), 40% on shared green lanes. 65% is in the immediate vicinity of the river. This sometimes means you’ll cycle through beautiful nature reserves, with views of the river on your left or right, but occasionally you’ll cycle close to the Rhône, with a large dike in between, so you can’t see the river at all!
The route developers warn about the section between Lyon and Givors, which runs along busy roads. Taking the train is recommended here. The route is otherwise very well-constructed, but here and there are small sections missing, and it depends on the municipality whether cyclists are truly taken into account (for example, the cycle path suddenly ends, there are large speed bumps, or the road surface is poor). Here and there, you can take alternative routes or sections on gravel roads.
The route is well-marked throughout. However, my advice is to use a route app, such as Komoot, to upload the route. A Via Rhona version is already available on Komoot. This doesn’t quite match the original route.
Accommodation
Along the route, there are plenty of accommodation options in the form of campsites, B&Bs, Chambres d’Hotes, gites, and hotels. Using the Via Rhona website, you can view these accommodations and plan your route accordingly. Many places have the Accueil Velo sign, which means cyclists are welcome and offer tools, a pump, or picnic tables. There is often a special rate for cyclists, but prices vary considerably. We paid between €17 and €35. There are also plenty of opportunities to shop for groceries and dine out. Note that almost all supermarkets are closed on Sundays.
By train
Along the route, you can take the train at various points. Take a look at the SNCF for timetables. It is advisable to reserve bicycle parking spaces in advance. They cost one or two euro. Even then, you are not always guaranteed a space. The trains are crowded. Furthermore, depending on the station, there may be a lift suitable for your bike. Some stations have a tunnel for cyclists that allows you to access the platform. On the train, you remove your bike bags and hang the bike on a hook.
En Route…..
We drove to Lyon and parked in a long-term parking garage. Then we took the train to Geneva.
Right outside Geneva, the route begins a steep climb and descent, passing several small villages. The Teppes du Verbois nature reserve, which the alternative route passes, is very beautiful. It then ends with an impossible staircase and under a bridge. We managed, but getting the bikes down the stairs was difficult.
There are few accommodations in the area. We deviated from the route and stayed at the Cantonal du Val de l’Allondon campsite. Not exactly recommended. Mostly regulars in old caravans, there’s one small field for tents, and the campsite is expensive (35 euros). We cycled 25 km.
Most beautiful part of the route
The next day we cycled to Seyssel. This is one of the most beautiful stages. You really cycle through the mountains and have beautiful views of the river here and there. You cycle through a lot of greenery. At Valleiry, you can cross the border through the forest—a beautiful stretch!
After Vulbens, we also enjoy the view! The descent via Usisens is very pleasant. We finished at Camping Haute du Rhône, a very cyclist-friendly campsite with picnic tables, even covered ones with a refrigerator, microwave, and charging stations. We cycled 50 km.
On the third day, we slowly started to get used to the kilometers. We cycled past the pretty village of Chanaz, which is beautifully situated on the river. At Cressin de Rochefort, we cycled along rugged mountainsides and the always beautiful blue river. We enjoyed it!
At Belley, the sky was threatening, but we made it to the supermarket just in time before the downpour. Some sections were a bit boring, like at Latour. Straightforward, we covered a lot of kilometers. There’s a nice little campsite in Saint-Genix-les-Guiers. The supermarket is next to the campsite, very convenient. We cycled 65 km.
Islands and a Waterfall
On day 4, we cycle past several islands in the river. Lots of greenery and charming little villages. At Glandieu, we visit the beautiful waterfall! We head further inland, passing Branque Castle and the medieval town of Morastel. There’s more wind today, making cycling a bit difficult. We end up in the hustle and bustle of Vallée Bleue, a campsite, water park, and funfair. The campsite has a small, empty field for cyclists; we prefer a regular pitch under the trees for the same price. We sleep with earplugs. We cycled 68 km.
Farm Campsite
Today, we cycle further inland and deviate from the original route at Hieres-sur-Amby. We cycle via several other cycle routes. We want to pass Cremieu, a beautiful medieval village with a rampart, charming narrow streets, and impressive castles. The day ends at the farm campsite, Les Epinettes (Saint-Romain-de-Jalionas), where we receive a friendly welcome and are allowed to pitch in the spacious back field. This is a lovely campsite, with a pleasant atmosphere and excellent facilities. Cycled 43 km.
By train
A chaotic and busy day. We first cycle along several D roads to Jons and then through the large nature park on gravel roads near Lyon.
In Lyon, we take the train to Vienne. The train turns out to be very crowded, and it’s difficult to get on and off with all the luggage. In Vienne, the elevator is too small, so the bike has to be upright in the elevator. Joost has a flat tire, so he changes it, and I look for a supermarket for lunch. We have lunch in the park of Vienne.
Then follows another stage to the busy Camping de la Lone, in Saint-Boeuf. 67 km of cycling.
Long day of cycling
It’s a beautiful stage today, with many green nature reserves and beautiful cities like Tournons-sur-la-Rhone and Valence. The cycling is going well, we have a tailwind, and especially in the morning, we’re moving at a good pace. We’ve arranged an overnight stay through Airbnb, a cottage in the countryside south of Valence. The last kilometers are challenging, along busy roads and steep climbs. Cycled 85 km. The shower, the bed… The peace and quiet is welcome!
Fruit and Wine
We cycle the first part of the route through orchards and vineyards. Apricots, nectarines, peaches, figs… everything passes by. Because of the overnight stay, we cycle for a while along an alternative route: La Drome a la velo. The surprise of the day is the beautiful village of Baix, where cyclists feel very welcome. Beautiful houses, lots of greenery, restrooms, and sun loungers overlooking the river. The route runs along the back of the village, but that’s certainly not a hardship!
Cruas has ugly factories, but Rochemaure is a real beauty. We cycle over the impressive Himalayan bridge to the island in the Rhone. For the last part, Google Maps directs us along a mountain bike route to the Rochecondrie campsite in Viviers. A beautiful spot, but very expensive (28 euros). 76 km cycled.
To Caderousse
On this Sunday morning, we first cycle to the bakery in Viviers, where we pick up some delicious bread and pastries. At Pont Saint Esprit, I mistake the route…we cross the bridge, but it turns out we don’t need to. We did enjoy the view, though!
The second part of the route takes us back through the countryside, and with the blazing sun, that’s not pleasant. Fortunately, we have quiet roads. We’re glad to arrive in Caderousse. This village has a huge dike, a rampart to protect it from flooding. Everywhere in the villages and towns, we see signs indicating when there have been floods and how high the water has reached (which is quite high). Caderousse is deserted, a very quiet village. We booked a Chambre d’Hotes here and had to wander around for a while before we were welcomed. Chambre d’Hotes no. 7 is highly recommended. A very friendly welcome, a lovely room, and a delicious breakfast. You’ll be amazed by the variety of rooms, as the owner is an avid collector and cyclist! There are many unique items with a story to tell. 69 km cycled.
Wind force 6
Today we cycle from Caderousse to Tarascon. We adjust the route to avoid the busy D roads and escape the strong wind. Most of the time we have tailwind , but here and there the original route changes direction.
We cycled the first part to Avignon. In Avignon, we visit the sights such as the Palace of the Popes and the Pont d’Avignon. Then we cycle along gravel roads to Aramon. Here we leave the Via Rhona and went to Tarascon. We spent the night at Camping Tartarin, a small campsite at the foot of the castle. We cycled 65 km
Final stage
We cycled from Tarascon first to Beaucaire and then to Arles. Arles is also a very beautiful city with lovely streets, beautiful squares, Van Gogh’s café, and a pleasant atmosphere. After Arles, we left the Via Rhona and cycled through the countryside, which bears many resemblance to Zeeland, into the Camargue.
The Camargue
The Camargue is a vast, marshy area with wild horses, an impressive number of birds, and little shade. We cycle mostly on gravel. When we arrive in Saintes-Maries de la Mer, we’re tired, but happy. We’ve booked a cottage there with a kitchen, bedroom, a nice shower, and a private garden with a terrace. We’ll spend the last few days of our holiday at the beach, exploring the Camargue, visiting the Pont du Gau Ornithological Park, and resting. A perfect end to a wonderful bike ride!
