The official Unionsleden route runs from Moss in Norway to Karlstad in Sweden. It covers 350 km through lush scenery, passing small villages and winding through deep forests and past beautiful lakes. We went on a cycling trip—largely following the Unionsleden—covering nearly 250 km, and we thoroughly enjoyed it!
Want to join us on this adventure? Here, I’m sharing all the details: where we stayed, where we parked our car, and how you can cycle the Unionsleden .
There is a dedicated website for the Unionsleden where you can find information on the stages, accommodation options, and the many sights along the route. It also provides details on the type of terrain you’ll be riding on, such as gravel paths or dedicated cycle lanes.
We have made several cycling trips. Would you like to read what we have been up to in Scotland, South of the UK , Norway or the Via Rhona in France.
The route
As mentioned, the Unionsleden runs from Moss to Karlstad. The trail takes its name from the Union formed between Norway and Sweden in 1814. You can start the route at various points. Generally, you cannot take your bike on the train. There are regional buses that allow you to mount your bike on the front, but availability is limited (only two bikes are allowed per bus), so we didn’t find this a practical option.
During the summer, the “Dalsland bus” runs specifically to pick up cyclists from various locations—such as Årjäng or the start and end points (Moss or Karlstad). This allows you, for example, to park your car in Karlstad and take the bus to Moss, then cycle back to your car. However, there are plenty of other options, so be sure to check the website. Also, when booking, it’s worth spending a few extra euros on cancellation insurance; it allows you to modify or cancel your bus trip at the last minute, which can certainly come in handy!
Our plan
We had originally planned to take the Dalsland bus to Moss on July 14th. Since we were also in Sweden to view houses, we adjusted our plans and postponed the bus trip by a week to July 21st. This was easily done via the website.
Unfortunately, we fell ill on July 20th and couldn’t take the bus. We adjusted our plans once again: cancelling the bus trip (and received a prompt refund—hooray!) and came up with a new plan.
In Årjäng we parked our car near the sportsfields and cycled from there to Töcksfors. We joined the Unionsleden trail halfway through this leg of the journey. From there, we followed the route to Lennartsfors, Dals Långed, and Svaneholm, before returning to Årjäng. Below, I provide a more detailed account of the stages and the places where we stayed overnight.
Arjäng – Töcksfors 37 km
Starting in Arjäng, we park near the sportfields which felt totally safe. We attach our panniers to our Koga WorldTravellers and set off!
We pick up the Unionsleden trail near Fölsbyn. Cycling along the lake, we find a lovely spot by the water for lunch. Refreshed, we continue our ride. A challenging gravel section follows. The final stretch takes us through the forest; it is more of a mountain bike trail than a route suited for heavily loaded touring bikes, but we manage it!
In Fågelvik, there is a beautiful little church situated on a small peninsula. There is a café there that sells delicious ice cream—a real treat on such a warm day!
The final leg to Töcksfors includes a few tough hills. We realize that we aren’t as fit as we used to be and aren’t quite used to being out on the road with these “pack mules” anymore. We arrive in Töckfors later than expected and stay at Turistgarden, the local hostel.
When booking, we thought we’d be getting a room in the main building, but we end up in a glorified portable cabin; there’s a construction site surrounding the building because, apparently, they don’t have enough rooms yet… It’s clean, and the shower and kitchen are fine, but it’s hardly a pleasant place to stay. Not recommended!
We pick up some food at the supermarket and turn in early.
Tockfors – Lennartsfors 41 km
The next morning, the weather is glorious again. The first part of the route to Lennartsfors is the same, but that’s not a problem at all because the scenery is beautiful. We also notice that cycling feels a bit easier than it did yesterday.
We have lunch at the same spot by the water and then head south near Fölsbyn. It’s a lovely route past lakes and quiet forests; the terrain is hilly, so we are constantly going up and down.
Lennartsfors is a charming village with some interesting sights, such as the old power station, the blacksmith’s workshop, and the locks of the Dalsland Canal. We stop for a drink at the Bergstugan Café—a place that also offers accommodation and serves delicious food.
We spend the night at Elovsbyn Camping, a little further along the lake, where we find a nice spot. The campsite has few facilities, and the quality is rather basic.
Lennartsfors – Dals Langed 59 km
At daybreak, we ride to the locks to have breakfast. It is a delightful morning. The route today is stunning and varied, taking us past beautiful lakes and meadows and through forests. There is a lot of gravel and quite a bit of climbing (and descending), but it’s getting easier all the time.
In Bengtsfors, we stop at the supermarket and have a snack by the harbor. The final leg of the route follows a brand-new, virtually flat cycle path—suddenly, the ride is incredibly smooth! The path runs past an old railway bridge and a stretch of rapids on the Dalsland Canal.
We stay at Kanalvillan in Dals Langed—a beautiful old house on a lovely property right next to the locks. What a special spot! There is a communal kitchen where Joost prepares a delicious meal. We feel tired but satisfied!
Dals Langed – Svaneholm 55 km
The weather isn’t as good the next day; it rains almost all morning. Even so, the cycling goes well. We ride through a beautiful area and pass through the Baljasen Nature Reserve.
We stop for *fika* at Not Quite, an art center housed in an old paper mill that features a bistro, a bakery, and a gallery. It’s a lovely, unique spot, even in the rain. The cake is delicious!
Afterward, we continue our ride. Fortunately, it soon dries up. We stop for lunch near Edsleskog. Almost every town has spots where you can have lunch or dinner at a picnic table—often even with a BBQ area (*grillplats*)—which is very convenient. We eat our leftovers from the night before, and they taste great.
The route takes us along beautiful gravel roads and past lakes. We stop for a cup of tea at the Hollsten shelter by Lake Omlen. It’s another wonderful spot—the kind you can find using Komoot or the *Vindskyddskartan* app, which lists all the shelters in Sweden where you can spend the night.
Tonight, we’re staying at a hotel in Svaneholm—a beautiful building. The guest rooms are located in the red building. Unfortunately, there isn’t a fully equipped kitchen, but there is a kettle, so we’re having a meal from a pouch today. That works just fine, too.
Svaneholm – Arjäng 53 km
The next morning, we leave the Unionsleden trail to take an alternative route to Årjäng. Google and Komoot try to direct us via the E18, a two-lane highway with a speed limit of 100 km/h—not exactly safe for cycling. So, I adjust the route. This means a longer ride, but we’d rather not take any risks.
The section near Lake Sillebotten is one of the most beautiful parts of the journey. A gravel road runs right along the lake, with a steep rock face beside it. It’s stunning! We’re facing a strong headwind today, but the scenery is beautiful.
We haven’t encountered much wildlife over the past few days, but today we spot a fox! Wow! It’s magnificent!
The final stretch to Arjäng follows a cycle path alongside the E18. We’re making good progress. We find our car back at the sports complex and unload all the panniers. We’re staying at Hotel Arjäng—a great hotel
Looking back
The Unionsleden—or at least the section we cycled—is a very varied route. You ride right through the heart of nature, sometimes going for long stretches without any buildings, shops, or places to eat. Much of the route follows quieter roads, gravel tracks, or even mountain bike trails.
The original stages, which we modified, are fairly short. But make no mistake: the terrain is hardly ever flat, and riding a heavy bike over gravel is quite demanding. We think the Unionsleden was a beautiful route and really enjoyed it